Fake Or Real?

How to detect a counterfeit coin

Ancient vs Modern Counterfeits

Not all counterfeit coins are modern. We see a long history of coin counterfeiting, often contemporaneous to the coins that they were in fact imitating. As soon as the first coins were minted in precious metals, we begin to see what now termed as ‘fourees’. The original design of these coins were minted in silver or gold, although the fouree coin is struck in base metal and coated in silver/gold, in an unlawful effort to enter the currency stream unnoticed. These were often produced using authentic dies, likely hinting that dies were often either stolen, or mint workers themselves were engaged in these illegal acts. The number of silver and gold coins that now turn up with ‘test cuts’ through the metal, shows how common and convincing these attempts were. The easiest way to detect one of these fouree cores is through ether exposed copper showing through the silver coating, discrepancies in weight to the original issues, or miss-matching of dies for the reverse of one coin and the obverse of another.

Another form that can be deemed as counterfeits by some were the ‘limes’ (frontier) issue coins. These were likely issued and used pseudo-officially on the fringes of the empire. They were cast using the dies of silver denomination coins, although the cast metal was replaced by bronze. It has been speculated that this was likely an effort by Roman administration to prevent precious metals being lost to enemies on the frontiers of the Empire. Upon returning to safe zoned cities, these issues may have been exchanged for their silver counterparts. This was not the only measure undertaken by both the Roman and later Byzantine Empire in an effort to prevent precious metals leaving their borders into foreign lands. These coins can be identified quite easily by a lack of precious metal, often appearing green or dark blue from the oxidization of copper on the surface.

A final contemporaneous group of counterfeit coins I would like to discuss shall be the groupings of ‘barbarous’ or foreign imitation coins. These were often issued in the frontier regions of the Roman Empire that suffered from coins shortage. This was especially so during the 3^rd and 4^th Century AD, when these regions were hit particularly hard by rampant inflation and ‘call backs’ of coins. We find many examples of these coin across modern day France, Spain, Germany and England. It is in these areas that artisans began producing their own dies in imitation of the current coins circulating at the time. It becomes clear that many of these die makers were nowhere near as skilled as their counterparts within the imperial mints. They also possessed little to no understanding of Latin. These coins often appear undersized, with blundered legends (sometime letters were just replaced with dots or lines) and ‘cartoonish’ looking heads and figures. They can be easily identified through size, weight and style alone. On the out skirts of Empires, or regions, we often find the diffusion of artistic styles. These are not counterfeits in themselves, as there was never any real intent to defraud the users. Many would also often borrow Roman or Greek standards of weight to ensure the coins could be easily exchanged with neighbors. They were very common in regions where coin production and use was a rather new technology, such as the Danube or Celtic coins issued in imitation of Alexander the Great and his father (many of these Celts or Westerners may have fought as mercenaries and brought this appreciation of money back home).

Modern Counterfeits

The first group of counterfeits that I would like to discuss here are the easiest to spot and avoid. These pieces are known as fantasy coins. Fantasy coins are usually created with no intent to defraud collectors as they are either completely new designs or strongly altered original designs. These are often found in tourist stores across the world, and may accidently turn up in the hands of an unsuspecting collector. My best advice to avoid these coins is the first know what you are buying. Make sure there are similar examples online or in reference books and familiarize yourself with the weights, sizes, material and design of the coin. If you have little knowledge of ancient coins, I would suggest asking for a reference number from the seller to a major catalog book.

The second group of counterfeits which are often the most common to come across from unknown dealers online are called cast fakes. Most of the authentic ancient coins up until the era of the steam powered minting press were in fact die struck and not cast (some authentic cast coins do exist, common in China). This is a process in which a disk of heated metal was placed between two inverse dies atop an anvil. The dies were then struck with a hammer to leave a relief design on one or both sides of the metal disk. The process of casting occurs when a mold is made either from scratch or from an impression of an authentic coin. Molten metal is then poured inside this mold and left to dry in the shape of the authentic coin. There are several discrepancies that occur through this process which will be easily identified by the untrained eye.

-due to the heat of the molten metal and the resulting gas, the casting process produces small casting bubble on the surface of the coin, which can be easily identified using a magnifying glass

-the metal used is often not the same as the original authentic piece that the cast hopes to imitate

-the weight is usually different from authentic examples (due in part to a different metal being used)

-the casting process also often leaves a casting seam on the side of the coin (the point in which the molten metal was poured into the mold)

-the relief may appear as too high or too low compared to authentic examples.

-there is an inconsistency of wear patterns. We sometimes find letters completely worn down, yet the highest points of the relief maintain their design.

-little evidence of oxidization on the surface of the coin (only in Copper or Silver coins). This can be observed as a green/blue/black layer on the surface of a copper/bronze coin, or as a black layer on the surface of a silver coin.

-there is never just one. When people go through the effort to create casting molds, they often produce these coins on a large scale.

-there is only just one? Sometimes casts are made as fantasy pieces. If you cannot find any similar examples online and you do not trust the seller, I advise staying away.

I myself have accidently purchased a number of counterfeit coins in my early years of collecting. In order to avoid this mistake, I suggest following the below steps.

Do you trust the seller? Have a look at the feedback and what others have said about this seller. Make sure they have a long history of trade. If they ever doubt the authenticity of the items or their own knowledge of authenticity, I advise you to stay away. The most knowledgeable and trustworthy sellers usually specialize in coinage, so avoid the ‘nicknack’ sellers.
Can you find an authentic example of this coin on a trusted website/online catalog. You should be looking for reference numbers which most professional and trustworthy seller are happy to provide. Compare the style and appearance.
Is it too good to be true? This is especially the case with coins issued by very famous figures in history at very low prices. These pieces are more attractive to those who don’t have great knowledge of numismatics.
Can you find an identical example of this coin posted to a coin chat group in which they have also doubted the authenticity? There are several websites that keep catalogs of known fakes.
Don’t be afraid to ask for help. There are plenty of websites and Facebook groups with experienced individuals who love to point out fakes.
Focus on the weight and size of the coin and compare these to know examples. The weights and sizes of these coins were quite standardized as coins were first issued as a way for an authority to guarantee the weights in precious metals.
Avoid coins that do not have a patina (oxidation layer). This is a layer of oxidation that builds up on the coin due to chemical reaction in the ground (not the case with gold). This layer is quite hard to imitate (although certain sprays and chemical solution exist) and also protect the coin from further corrosion once exposed to oxygen and moisture.
Look for signs of casting, which could be either: casting bubbles, casting seams, weight discrepancies, relief is too high/low, uneven wear pattern.
You could also attempt to test the metal. For silver, copper or gold, this can be done using magnets (as these metal are non-magnetic) or using ice (all three metal have high thermal conductivity so the ice should begin to melt very quickly). If available, you could also attempt to test the metal professionally using XRF or similar devices. The trace metal and element in modern coin materials are very different from those available in ancient times.
Learn from your mistakes. If you don’t trust your ability to spot a fake, try to avoid making risky purchases.

Fouree